What seafaring tips can you use that cost next to nothing, but will reward you with more time seafaring--and less time waiting for expensive sail repairs? Follow these simple steps to save lots of money and keep your sails in tip-top shape! The following article will lead us through the topic Ways to add life to your sailing chicago career.
Should a new sailboat builder simply purchase rigging and sails? You know, it depends. Some plans, such as Chris Ostlinder's A18T trimaran, tend to be "high-tech."You can read about the A18T on the Duckworks website. These plans call for fittings and have stressed on things that are similar to what you see on Hobie Cats and things.
Dry Your Headsail before you Stow It: Mold and mildew love to bed down in a moist fold of Dacron or Nylon. Cut these ugly outlaws down before they stain your costly sails. Dry your sails before you bag them when you get back to the dock. Hoist the headsail or mainsail on a light air day for a few minutes. This dries your sail fast and easy without the fuss of looking for a shore side method.
So unlike a car, the tiller works just the opposite! On the other hand, a ship wheel works the same as the steering wheel on an automobile. So depending on how your sailboat is equipped with a tiller or a ships wheel will determine how you will steer with it. I would recommend learning how to sail with the wind for a while before tacking or seafaring upwind.
Wash and Dry Sails at Season's End and Check Hanks, Slides, and Slugs: Hose down your sails with fresh water and dry them on a clothes line. Or, drape them over a few lawn chairs. This simple bath removes salt crystals and dirt, which can chafe sail-thread if left unattended. Jib or staysail hanks need the care to keep from freezing up with corrosion at the piston. The same goes for your mainsail slides (external) or slugs (internal). Wash these fittings with fresh water to keep them corrosion-free.
And I should mention the blue type of polytarp material you get at Wal Mart isn't good. Stay away from that. However, you can buy white polytarp material from Polysails. They sell a kit which has everything you need, plus a lot of instructions on their website on how to build these sails. You can also get white tarps from Tarps.com. They have a white, 6 oz tarp that is very sturdy and durable. It's got good UV resistance and makes great sails.
Look at the patches at the head, tack, clew, and reef points. Mark worn areas with a pencil. Take the sail to your sail maker (or sew it yourself), and it will reward you with a trouble-free performance next seafaring season. Use beeswax or light, waterproof lubricant to slick the slots in your mast and sailboat boom.
It recommends a series of small darts around the perimeter. That works very well on small sails. There are different techniques to use for all kinds of sails. To create a professional sail, a sail maker will use "broad seaming" to give it an airfoil type of shape. They'll use a series of panels, which are sewn together in such a way as to create the shape they want.
Should a new sailboat builder simply purchase rigging and sails? You know, it depends. Some plans, such as Chris Ostlinder's A18T trimaran, tend to be "high-tech."You can read about the A18T on the Duckworks website. These plans call for fittings and have stressed on things that are similar to what you see on Hobie Cats and things.
Dry Your Headsail before you Stow It: Mold and mildew love to bed down in a moist fold of Dacron or Nylon. Cut these ugly outlaws down before they stain your costly sails. Dry your sails before you bag them when you get back to the dock. Hoist the headsail or mainsail on a light air day for a few minutes. This dries your sail fast and easy without the fuss of looking for a shore side method.
So unlike a car, the tiller works just the opposite! On the other hand, a ship wheel works the same as the steering wheel on an automobile. So depending on how your sailboat is equipped with a tiller or a ships wheel will determine how you will steer with it. I would recommend learning how to sail with the wind for a while before tacking or seafaring upwind.
Wash and Dry Sails at Season's End and Check Hanks, Slides, and Slugs: Hose down your sails with fresh water and dry them on a clothes line. Or, drape them over a few lawn chairs. This simple bath removes salt crystals and dirt, which can chafe sail-thread if left unattended. Jib or staysail hanks need the care to keep from freezing up with corrosion at the piston. The same goes for your mainsail slides (external) or slugs (internal). Wash these fittings with fresh water to keep them corrosion-free.
And I should mention the blue type of polytarp material you get at Wal Mart isn't good. Stay away from that. However, you can buy white polytarp material from Polysails. They sell a kit which has everything you need, plus a lot of instructions on their website on how to build these sails. You can also get white tarps from Tarps.com. They have a white, 6 oz tarp that is very sturdy and durable. It's got good UV resistance and makes great sails.
Look at the patches at the head, tack, clew, and reef points. Mark worn areas with a pencil. Take the sail to your sail maker (or sew it yourself), and it will reward you with a trouble-free performance next seafaring season. Use beeswax or light, waterproof lubricant to slick the slots in your mast and sailboat boom.
It recommends a series of small darts around the perimeter. That works very well on small sails. There are different techniques to use for all kinds of sails. To create a professional sail, a sail maker will use "broad seaming" to give it an airfoil type of shape. They'll use a series of panels, which are sewn together in such a way as to create the shape they want.
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